Maria's Bread: A Christmas Story in Sfakia

On the island of Crete, there is a mountain village named Sfakia where the same story is told every Christmas at the home of Antonio, the village baker. All the women in Sfakia (and the men, if truth be told), agree that Manoussos’ wife, Maria, (God rest her soul) made the best crusty country bread in all of Sfakia. It seemed that Maria baked her very best loaves for the holidays, so it was with sadness that families in Sfakia approached every Christmas season, knowing that they would not be enjoying Maria’s bread. They compensated for this by gathering at Antonio’s and telling stories about Maria’s Bread.

Voula spoke first, explaining that Maria did not keep the recipe to herself. She said Maria would take her dough on a wooden plank to the communal, outdoor brick oven behind Antonio the baker’s house and it was there that she would give her recipe to anyone who asked.

Dimitra added that it was when Maria took her bread from the oven and the women saw the beautiful large loafs with the golden crusts that she was asked again and again about the recipe. “I told you,” Maria would say, “it is wheat flour, lukewarm water, yeast, salt, olive oil, milk, and honey.” She named the ingredients freely, but she never explained exactly how much of each nor did she mention when she added the honey and the olive oil, and she would never knead the bread in front of anyone. If a visitor was in her house or near her at the communal oven, Maria would make sure, discretely, that her bread kneading skills were not on display.

The women asked each other “What was Maria’s secret?” Voula offered that the bread must have had such a fine crust because of the extra time Maria kept it in the oven. “Did you not notice,” Voula said, “Maria always removed her bread last.” The other women agreed, adding that even when they said “your turn, Maria, take your bread,” she would always demur and wait for all of us to remove our loaves. “Yes,” Dimitra agreed, pointing out that this gave Maria’s bread the important two or three additional minutes in the hot oven to get a good crust.

At this point, Antonio the baker joined the women. He had been inside his shop listening. “I know Maria’s secret,” Antonio said, “but even knowing that, I cannot duplicate her bread.” The women gathered round, asking Antonio to solve the mystery. “It was the advice Maria received from her mother, given to her by her own mother, Maria’s grandmother, he said, pausing to make sure all of the women heard this. “What advice, Antonio, what secrets did she receive? Please tell us?” the women pleaded.

After achieving the dramatic effect he sought, Antonio revealed the words spoken to Maria by her mother. Bending toward the women and speaking in a confidential tone, Antonio whispered, “Your touch should be as light as the wings of an angel.” And he repeated this again in an even lower whisper.

Now, assured that he had the rapt attention of his audience, Antonio said, “I will demonstrate,” taking a round of dough and placing it on a floured plank. As he gently squeezed and pounded the dough, he said, Maria’s mother told her, “an angel does not pound the bread, an angel brushes the bread with its wings and flies away.”

The women were enthralled. “If this is the secret,” Voula said,” “why cannot we or you make Maria’s bread?” “Ah,” said Antonio, “I suppose it is because the angel flew away with our Maria.” From that time forward, the people of Sfakia gathered at Antonio’s bakery every Christmas to hear the story of Maria’s bread kneaded by the wings of an angel

This article was published in The National Herald Food & Travel section and on Hellenic Lifestyle Celebrating Greek Spirit

The Wild Herbs of Crete

The journey over the steep and narrow mountain roads of Crete to arrive in the mountainous Kallikratis Plateau at The Wild Herbs of Crete can be daunting for anyone, especially a city dweller from the United States. I was driven there from near Frangokastello on roads rising to heights 980 meters or more above flat land on what was mainly a single lane. Elizabeth and Yorgos, my Cretan friends who drove me to Kallikratis chatted all the way, oblivious to the fact that I was not speaking because I was holding my breath.


To say it is “off the beaten track” is an understatement, just as it is an understatement to say it is “sparsely populated.” According to the local Municipality of Crete, only three families live on this plateau in the Lefka Ori region of southwest Crete.
The village is named after Manousos Kallikratis, who with five ships and 1,500 men, led a campaign to defend the area from the Ottomans in 1453. Kostas Mountakis. a famous Cretan musician, was born here.


Manousakis Vineyards – Crete

As the first rays of sunlight warm the field, I look toward the Lefa Ori mountain range and see the procession of men and women in the distance, slowly descending the rugged hills. I am standing near Kostis Falanis, who has been working the ancient still for the past two hours; the aroma of a sweet liquid fills the air.

He gives the strayfylo—the grape skins and stems—another quick stir, watching as the steam from the copper pot is funneled to the tank. Kostis tells me the steam is and then cooled by the water until it becomes the “fire-water” liquid called tsikoudia, also known by the more popular name of raki.

Askyfou’s Country Bread

All the women in Askyfou (and the men, if truth be told,) agree that the cheese maker’s wife, Maria (God rest her soul), made the best crusty country bread (horiátiko psomí) in all of Askyfou.

It wasn’t that she kept the recipe to herself. Maria would take her dough on a wooden plank to the outdoor brick oven behind Nikos the baker’s house and it was there that she would give her recipe to anyone who asked.

As in other mountain villages, it is the custom on special holidays for women to bake their bread in the communal oven when the baker finishes his own loaves. It is also the practice on any weekday for villagers to bring casseroles for their evening meal to the wood-burning oven and allow them to simmer slowly.

Art Space Winery of Santorini

One enters the Art Space Winery of Santorini in Exo Gonia through an underground cavern eight meters below the earth’s surface. Its carved chambers of pumice rock are a work of art and visitors with discriminating eyes will know that the age of this ancient grotto can be seen in the caves and cisterns formed by the island’s unique volcanic ash.

Art Space Winery is, as its name implies, a place for art and a place for wine. Hundreds of artists from all over the world have exhibited their paintings, photographs, sculptures, and jewelry here. It is a working winery producing more than 10,000 bottles of fine wine each year.

 Traditional wine making equipment is on display along with artifacts from a winery in the same location dating back to 1861.

The Museum tells the story of the history of wine making and the craftsmanship employed. The vineyards of Santorini are said to be among “the oldest in the world,” and perhaps its longevity is due to its unique volcanic soil, known to be resistant to the dreaded fungi or insect infestation that have plagued and destroyed many a vineyard.

The Art Space Winery has several features contributing to the production of high quality wine. First, the grapes are organically grown. Secondly, the walls of the winery are dense layers of pumice, six meters thick, creating insulating material and a perfect environment for maturation and ageing of the wine.

Finally, the vinification—the conversion of grape juice into wine through fermentation–takes place on three different levels, thus taking advantage of gravity and natural flow without the use of pumps.

An old, pre-industrial winery that began operation in 1861 remained in operation until 1952 when its third owner, Nikolaos A. Argyros, closed its doors to establish SantoWines, the largest winery on the island. In 1999 Mr. Argyros’ son, Antonis, brought the old winery back to life and founded Art Space Winery.

Whether you are interested exclusively in wine or exclusively in art, you should not leave Santorini without visiting Art Space.

Where else can you wander through a cave, learn about the history of wine-making, see modern wine making in progress, and be treated to exquisite works of art. Indeed, it is a very special “space.”

TELOS

Published in The National Herald, June 2014 and on Hellenic Lifestyle ... Celebrating Greek Spirit

Special thanks to Art Space for all the photos. Visit them at www.artspace-santorini.com

Tsigoudia in Crete

As the first rays of sunlight warm the field, I look toward the Lefa Ori mountain range and see the procession of men and women in the distance, slowly descending the rugged hills. I am standing near Kostis Falanis, who has been working the ancient still for the past two hours; the aroma of a sweet liquid fills the air.

He gives the stayfylo—the grape skins and stems—another quick stir, watching as the steam from the copper pot is funneled to the tank. Kostis tells me the steam is then cooled by the water until it becomes the “fire-water” liquid called tsikoudia, also known by the more popular name of raki.

I am in Vatollakkos, Crete, participating in the “Night Harvest” of the Manousakis Winery. Earlier that morning, I was with the workers, picking grapes in the vineyards. Because it is too hot during the day, and the fields are not lighted in the evening, the “night” harvest actually begins shortly before sunrise and ends around 8 am.

This is the last harvest of the year completed by the Vineyard’s paid workers and also friends and neighbors of the Manousakis’ family. It is a ritual that brings the community together. As the men and women approach the still, they receive a traditional greeting from Kostis: a shot of the tsikoudia, ritualistically downed in one swallow.

A few feet from the still are long tables laden with Cretan specialties prepared that morning by women from the village. I notice that most people are choosing the small sausages first, so I sample one and immediately take another. I tell the woman next to me that the sausage is the most delicious I ever tasted and she tells me it is made with a “secret” ingredient.

The sausages are small, so I venture to the table again, taking a third. I savor it, and this time I am sure I have discovered the secret ingredient. It is vinegar. I make a mental note to ask my host for the recipe.

I am told I must have my shot of tsikoudia, so I approach the still, now surrounded by men only. I take the shot and down it in one swallow as Kostis shouts “Kalos Orisete!! Kalos Oriste!! It tastes nothing like the commercial brand sold in the stores on Crete and I realize that it must be highly prized. I ask Kostis for a second shot and he complies and then fills glasses all around. Now the men make a toast, shouting “Kalos Orisete!! Kalos Orisete!!

And I join in.

TO TELOS (THE END)

Photography courtesy of Kopanakis Family taken in Makrigialos-Sitia, Crete

This article was published in Hellenic Lifestyls ... Celebrating Greek Spirit