Join me for ...

Join me for ...
... a journey through some of the most beautiful landscapes of Greece
... wanderings through the less traveled mainland and islands of Greece
... a pilgrimage into the deep vistas of the land of the gods

Saturday, August 23, 2014

How to Undress (with Discretion) on a Public Beach


When she walked onto the beach, she owned it. She was as lovely as a soft, summer's day and as sultry as the wine-dark night. She wore golden sandals and a caftan-like top that was on the very edge of her white shoulders. In her hand was a large beach bag. Into the bag she reached and pulled out two tiny pieces of cloth. I guessed (correctly) the strings were a bikini top and bottom. Her one hand went under her caftan and down fell a tiny pair of panties; her other hand went back under the garment, did a few twists and turns, and down fell what looked like a bra.

Her garment suggested transparency, but that was a trick--you saw what your eyes wanted you to see. After discarding the "street" clothing, she reached for her beach attire. With two quick steps, the bikini bottom disappeared under the caftan and with a reach behind and a reach on top to tie the knot, the bikini top was put in place. As she lifted her shoulders and allowed her caftan to fall, she raised her arms and removed the ribbon from her hair. She shook her head and her lovely, silken hair cascaded to her waist.

The grey-eyed goddess Athena stood before us. And this performance cost not one euro.

I could hardly wait to get back to my flat to imitate this routine. If she could do it, so could I--with practice. Wearing my appropriate undergarments covered by a large top, I slipped off my white, cotton (not too sexy) underpants and then did Athena one better by kicking them across the room. Ah ha, that was a good move. Dramatic. It would get attention. But when I tried smooth movements to remove my top, I fumbled and fumbled with hooks and realized that, for me, this just would not work. I was all thumbs.

To accomplish what Athena did, one has to appear to be poetry in motion. And that is what she presented on the beach--a lovely tabloid of poetry in motion. Thank you, Athena. I would wager that not everyone on the beach noticed your grey eyes, but I did because I saw them sparkle when you completed your exquisite performance.

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Here Comes the Sun!


THROUGH THE CLOUDS—HERE COMES THE SUN!

This year marks the anniversary of the so-called “British Invasion,” when the Beatles arrived in America to appear on the Ed Sullivan Show. It is a reminder of a precious musical “cultural exchange” I enjoyed a few years ago in Athens with two twenty-something Athenian friends. They initiated me to the world of Rembetika music and I cautiously introduced them to the music of a group they knew vaguely--The Beatles.

Rembetika music grew from The Asia Minor Catastrophe when more than two million refugees were forced from Anatolia in 1922 by the Turkish army. Troops led by Kemal Attaturk burned Smyrna, forcing most of the Greeks, Jews, and anyone not Turkish who survived to flee to very poor neighborhoods of Athens and Thessaloniki where they formed underground communities, shunned by most urbanites and hounded by the authorities.

From these dreadful conditions came mournful music lamenting the suffering and hopeless lives of the survivors who had no dreams for the future. Played with bouzoukis, the music has a haunting, plaintive, oriental sound. To hear these songs, my friends, Yorgos and Sophia, took me to the Plaka area where we went to several “dens” in taverna basements on a dreary and cloudy November Saturday night. True to Yorgos’ description, the songs were mournful, reminding me of American “blues,” except they were very raw and doleful.

When we went home to their flat, my friends enriched my education of Rembetika music by playing more CDs. To reciprocate, I told them Beatles’ stories and played the Abby Road album, explaining that it had George Harrison’s Something, a song Frank Sinatra considered “the greatest love song ever written.” (I am not sure they recognized Sinatra’s name). Shortly thereafter, I went to bed, while they played my CD and danced.

The next morning, dark clouds were hovering as I drank my coffee on the balcony, and Yorgos and Sophia were inside, once again dancing slowly to Harrison’s great love song, Something. When Yorgos came outside and saw the clouds, he said he had the perfect song for the occasion. Going inside, he played one of his favorites: Cloudy Sunday by Stelios Kazantzidis. We listened, watched the clouds, sipped our coffee, and then, suddenly, the sun began to make its appearance.

I could not resist. I hurried into the house, found my CD, and played Here Comes the Sun for my Athenian friends. Joining arms, we swayed to the joyful melody, welcoming the sun.

Saturday, August 9, 2014

Trekking to Naxos and Amorgos

Alpine Travel of Crete has a new outdoor, fourteen-day trekking adventure during the months of May to October on the islands of Naxos and Amorgos. This has been specially planned to enable you to visit sacred sites and monasteries difficult to find on your own. It is classified as a “moderate” trek for those with Level Two hiking experience who enjoy walks of four to five hours a day.

The adventure will be varied and include breaks for swimming in remote, crystal clear waters, but the purpose of the adventure it to take you to the peaks where you can visit ancient sites, chapels, and monasteries.

The itinerary for the fourteen-day adventure includes:

An overnight stay in an Athens hotel, and a visit to Plaka and the Archaeological Museum before boarding the ferry to Naxos for your first hike up to Apano Kastro, a 9th century Venetian Fort and also Halki. You will spend time exploring the village of Apeiranthos and Minoa, the ancient site overlooking Katapola, and also the monastery of Varsamitis.

On Amorgos you will walk through the picturesque streets of the town (Chora) and follow the trail leading to the chapel of Profitis Ilias where you will have a magnificent view overlooking the island of Amorgos. You will also visit the monastery of Chozoviotissa, one of the most famous sights on the island, and continue on the path to Aegiali for a swim.

Hikes through the two islands of Koufonisi the village of Tholaria, the church of Stavros, the ancient site of Arkesini, are included in the adventure, as is a hike up the highest peak of the Zas mountain on Naxos to visit the cave of Zeus. When you arrive at the top, you will have incredible views of the Archipelagos and the entire island.

For further information, please visit www.alpine.gr

Published in The National Herald, July 2014

Thessaloniki Mou

Most visitors to Greece make Athens their base before leaving for the islands. If you are someone who travels to Greece regularly and have never been to Northern Greece, there is no question a stay in Thessaloniki will surprise and delight you. Give yourself a treat and “go north.” Traffic is slower here, life is more relaxed, and some Greeks consider this sister to Athens to be rather “chic.”

Thessaloniki is Greece’s second largest City, and while it matches Athens in sophistication, it excels in providing outstanding venues for people watching. Unlike Athens, Thessaloniki’s main squares, Platia Elefterias and Platia Aristotelous, are by the seaside. The squares have wide avenues and are vibrant and bustling venues with ouzeries, tavernas, top-notch restaurants, elegant, fashionable shops, and “bouzouki halls” where haunting Rembetika music is played by world-class musicians.

The Wild Herbs of Crete

The journey over the steep and narrow mountain roads of Crete to arrive in the mountainous Kallikratis Plateau at The Wild Herbs of Crete can be daunting for anyone, especially a city dweller from the United States. I was driven there from near Frangokastello on roads rising to heights 980 meters or more above flat land on what was mainly a single lane. Elizabeth and Yorgos, my Cretan friends who drove me to Kallikratis chatted all the way, oblivious to the fact that I was not speaking because I was holding my breath.


To say it is “off the beaten track” is an understatement, just as it is an understatement to say it is “sparsely populated.” According to the local Municipality of Crete, only three families live on this plateau in the Lefka Ori region of southwest Crete.
The village is named after Manousos Kallikratis, who with five ships and 1,500 men, led a campaign to defend the area from the Ottomans in 1453. Kostas Mountakis. a famous Cretan musician, was born here.


Skiing…in Greece!


It is not widely known, but it is a fact that skiing holidays in Greece are much less expensive than in other areas of Europe.  Perhaps the more famous European ski resorts attract more celebrities, but the mountains of Greece offer stunning, idyllic scenery, their own particular charm, and proximity to other attractions, historical sites, and at some locations, thermal springs.

Greece offers exhilarating adventures against the stunning beauty of the alpine landscape.

Two websites have the most comprehensive information on ski resorts in or near central Greece: www.visitgreece.com, the official site of the Greek National Tourism Organization (GNTO) and www.greektravel.com, Matt Barrett’s popular guide. Slopes in Central Greece closest to Athens are on Mount Parnassus, a two hour drive from Athens and close to Delphi; and the Pelion Mountain (Agriolefkes), and Mount Velouchi, (Karpenisi), both approximately four hours from Athens by car.

Mount Parnassus has fifteen slopes and Agriolefkes and Karpenisi have three. All have accommodations, cafeterias, and restaurants. Highly recommended, also, is the modern ski lodge on Kalavrita in the Peloponessos, the second largest ski resort in Greece. Some ski enthusiasts consider Kalavrita to be among the best in Europe.

On the island of Crete, Alpine Travel will plan ski holidays for you and your group. Tourists come from all over the world for the cross-country adventures on the White Mountains and Mount Psiloritis. For information about a unique and exciting new package called “Heliskiing” that Alpine is offering this season contact George Antonakakis, founder, at www.alpinetravel.gr. Mr. Antonakakis is a pilot rated AR (Aerobatics) by the British Aerobatic Academy under the European Aviation Safety Agency.

Weather permitting, groups are taken by helicopter to the top of slopes on The White Mountains for cross-country skiing. It has become very popular and you are encouraged to book as soon as possible. Please visit the website to see photos of activity during a seven-day “Heliskiing” trips. Alpine Travel is well-known for its “adventure” travel all year round at various locations on the island and for popular active holidays for families. Summer travel packages range from trekking, hiking gorges, and kayaking to bungee jumping.

TELOS

Published in The National Herald, January 2014

Schinias Beach – Shhh, it’s a Secret!


There are not many places in Greece where you can enjoy a walk in a forest and a stroll on a beach, but most Athenians know of such a place, even though it has been called “a best-kept secret.” It is Schinias Beach, near Marathon, about 45 kilometers from Athens on the east coast of the Attica Peninsula.

Schinias has been called “one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece” and in comments posted on the Trip Advisor website, one reviewer called it “the best beach in the world for families with small children.” On the same site, another said “it is Greece’s best kept secret.”

Known for its natural beauty, crystalline waters, and very long beach with very fine sand, Schinias is on the edge of a serene pine forest that reaches the water’s edge. The coastal resort has been called “picture perfect” by some travel writers and is a favorite weekend destination for Athenians. It features comfortable facilities, including a water sports center and rental equipment, and is ideal for families with children. Because the sand is so fine, it is perfect for children who want to build sand castles. Windsurfers discovered this beach years ago and find it ideal for their sport.

Protected by the Schinias Peninsula, there are no currents or large waves and toddlers can wade a hundred or more meters out to sea and not be in water over their heads. Because there are no waves, adults can swim long distances at a leisurely pace without tiring. Others prefer to simply float and soak up the sun while chatting with friends.

Schinias is an easy drive – less than an hour – from Athens. There is plenty of space for parking and it is free. It can be reached, also, by the local bus that leaves from Mavromateon Street at the Pedion Areos Park. The nearest metro station is Victoria. Once there, you will find a nice variety of tavernas and seafood restaurants and, if you are a tourist who wants to spend a few days in the area, hotels are just a few kilometers from Schinias, and also in Marathon.

Published in The National Herald, June 2014

Santorini’s Pension George: the Dream

George Halaris was only sixteen in the early 1970s when he was working on a cruise ship in the Aegean touring the Cycladic islands, admiring their beauty, but acknowledging that in his mind nothing could compare to his beloved Santorini. Tourism had not blossomed as yet, but the young man recognized that the natural beauty he saw as he sailed from island to island had enormous potential as a tourist destination.



One of ten children, Mr. Halaris worked long and hard hours from 1973 to 1982 on the cruise ship Stella Oceanis, with a break for compulsory National Service in the Navy. All this time he dreamed of his roots in the volcanic soil of his village. “I was constantly homesick,” he explains.

Same-Species Marriage Legal on Mykonos


Petros, a proud and stately pelican, is the famous mascot of Mykonos, if not the most famous mascot of the Greek islands. His mate is the lovely, pink-feathered Irini. It is said that sometime in the early 1990s they were joined together in a marriage ceremony on the harbor with a fisherman wearing a top hat performing the “rites.”

Guests, who were told beforehand that the fisherman would be in “formal attire,” came dressed in their finery. Here is the back-story but first, in the interests of full disclosure, it must be revealed that it was an arranged marriage.


The birds would meet for the first time on the harbor at the ceremony. While Irini waited there pacing nervously, Petros, who many feared would be a reluctant participant, was brought to the harbor in the mayor’s limousine.


Fears were quickly allayed when Petros hopped from the limo, went directly to Irini, raised his head and massive beak skyward and made loud, squawking sounds which the guests described as “joyous.” Irini, who was sometimes bad-tempered, stood regally aloof during the mating call. Then, to the delight of the crowd, she made the first move, nudged Petros with her neck, and led him to the basket of fish awaiting them. On cue, the fisherman declared them “wed” and threw his top hat into the air. Musicians played N’ Agape (love me), and everyone danced. It is said that the pair became inseparable, like lovers in paradise. On Mykonos today, you will see them strolling on the harbor, enjoying morning and evening swims, and having lunch or dinner at whatever taverna offers the best and freshest baskets of fish.


Petros is really Petros II. The first Petros was an injured bird washed to the shore, rescued by a fisherman and nursed back to health. He became a beloved pet of the locals for many years until he passed away in 1985. In the early 1990s a travel agent found a bird in Germany, named him Petros II, and sent him to Mykonos as a replacement for the beloved original.

Irini was already on the island when the new bird arrived, creating the impetus for the locals to arrange a “marriage.” Today there are three pelicans (and possibly more) on Mykonos, each well loved and each responding to the name “Petros,” because while most visitors to the island know that Petros is the mascot, few know the story of the arranged marriage. So please, keep the secret.

TO TELOS (THE END)

Published in The National Herald, April 2014

“Naturist” Not “Nudist” at Vritomartis


Americans call a hotel where clothing is not worn in outdoor areas “a nudist resort,” but Greeks prefer the name “naturist.”  This term means the hotel is a properly licensed resort where guests observe the rules of “naturism” in all outdoor areas by the pool and the beach, from sundown to sunset. And…the only naturist resort in Crete happens to be just one kilometer from the most traditional of all Greek mountain villages—Chora Sfakion, known for its deep respect of Cretan traditions.

From the day Vritomartis opened in 1989 until today, the hotel owners and its guests and the hotel and tavern owners and their guests in Chora Sfakion remain the friendliest of neighbors. A 20-person van comes four times daily to the square in Chora Sfakion to take guests to and fro.


Chora Sfakion is in one of the most remote areas of Crete; its setting is spectacular and was first described by author Xan Fielding as the area “where the mountains meet the sea.” Surrounded by the White Mountains,

Chora Sfakion’s land is lapped by the beautiful Libyan Sea. To give you some perspective of its remoteness, it is 155 kilometers from Heraklion and eight kilometers from Rethymnon and is reached by traveling over steep, hair splitting, and very narrow mountain roads.


Vritomartis is a large resort in a beautiful setting surrounded by a rugged plateau of mountains rising over 2,000 meters to the North, and resting on a wild coastline. Taking its name from a ancient, Minoan goddess worshiped in the area, the resort has eighty-five beautifully appointed rooms, of which forty-two are located on two floors in the main building and forty-three in nine separate bungalows. All have air conditioning, telephone, television Wi-Fi access, a mini fridge, radio, and hair dryer.

There is a twenty-five meter swimming pool, and a children’s pool and small playground set in a garden with sea and mountain views. Around the pool are sunbeds, umbrellas, showers, and plenty of shade, as well as a pool bar that serves a wide variety of beverages and snacks.


Beautiful, quiet beaches, including Filaki beach, are within easy walking distance of the hotel area and you will find a snack bar, umbrellas, and sunbeds there. The beach has unusual cliffs and cave formations which provide shade and a small shuttle bus goes back and forth between the hotel and the beach.

Some guests want to do nothing more than relax in the peace and quiet of the hotel and its grounds, while others choose to participate in some activities, such as garden chess, tennis, volleyball, table tennis, and bocce. Once every two weeks local musicians and dancers perform for “Cretan Dance Night” outdoors on the bar veranda, and there is music and dancing three nights a week.

For guests who want to explore areas of southern Crete, the hotel offers excursions to the island of Gavdos, the southernmost point in Europe; boat trips to Agios Pavlos, Agia Roumeli, and Fournoti, and day trips to Frangokastello and the palm forest of Preveli. There are weekly walks of the spectacular Aradena Gorge, guided walks through the picturesque villages of Agios Ioannis, Aradena, and Anopolis, and a weekly walk through the nearby Imbros Gorge, which is a lot less challenging than the Aradena Gorge.

The Hotel Vritomartis is beautifully and tastefully decorated and there is a large pool and access to a private beach. I found the visitors there to be an international mix of sophisticated travelers who want to sun bathe and swim natural. The atmosphere was welcoming and jolly and it should be a destination point for anyone who seeks a naturist resort in a setting stolen from paradise. (Yes, I swam natural in the pool and in the sea;-) For additional information, please visit the resort’s website at http://www.vritomartis.com

TELOS

Published in The National Herald, July 2014 with thanks to Wolfgang Kistler for the first photo

Messolonghi – Chasing Lord Byron

If you would like to spend some time exploring interesting and historical places on mainland Greece, consider Messolonghi. Not only will you be visiting a town declared “sacred” by the Greek government in 1937, but you will be following in the footsteps of the English poet, Lord Byron.

In central Greece, Messolonghi rests sleepily in the arms of the rivers Acheloos and Evinos at the northern end of the entrance to the Gulf of Patras, much as it did in ancient times.

 When the town stirs, the shallow waters languishing by its alluvial islets flow gently against the shore. The islets form lagoons circled by lush growth and crowned by flocks of exotic seabirds. In the waters below, species of perhaps some of the best fish in the world share an aquatic sanctuary, a habitat so rare it is protected by a treaty.

Friday, August 8, 2014

Manousakis Vineyards – Crete

As the first rays of sunlight warm the field, I look toward the Lefa Ori mountain range and see the procession of men and women in the distance, slowly descending the rugged hills. I am standing near Kostis Falanis, who has been working the ancient still for the past two hours; the aroma of a sweet liquid fills the air.

He gives the strayfylo—the grape skins and stems—another quick stir, watching as the steam from the copper pot is funneled to the tank. Kostis tells me the steam is and then cooled by the water until it becomes the “fire-water” liquid called tsikoudia, also known by the more popular name of raki.

So Many Greek Cruises, So Little Time

There is a famous tale told by Jean Buridan, a medieval logician and philosopher, about a donkey who starved to death even though he had three full bales of hay before him.

The philosopher gives many lessons in logic as he tells the tale, but the story’s moral is that, because the poor beast could not choose among three succulent bales of hay, he ended up with nothing.

Selecting which cruise to take on the Greek islands can be daunting, but not if you use the services of a Greek travel agency, specializing in travel to Greece and Turkey. Unlike the bewildered donkey who could not choose from tempting options, you will have knowledgeable guidance enabling you to select the cruise perfect for you.

Greece’s Healing Hot Springs


Since antiquity, persons suffering from muscular discomforts have sought comfort provided by the healing waters of nature’s hot springs. Fortunately, Greece not only has an abundance of these natural, thermal springs, but is taking the lead in the tourism industry by offering extraordinary “Thermal Travel” packages to tourists. A company called “Thermal Greece” has very enticing, year-round choices, including five resorts where services are offered year round.


The company is not a travel agency, but a dedicated physical therapy service. It is the brainchild of two men: one is a medical doctor specializing in rheumatology and the other is a tourism specialist. They combined their skills to offer physical healing services in carefully selected, modern Greek hydrotherapy centers. This differs from traditional travel agencies promoting spa destinations as part of a holiday. Those who enroll in a “Thermal Greece” program receive personalized, holistic healing treatments utilizing the benefits of baths in the most outstanding natural hot springs of Greece.


The founders of this service released the following statement: “In contemporary medicine, it is widely accepted that including hot baths in a natural, thermal springs setting, helps patients suffering from musculo-skeletal problems, due either to medical disorders or physical and mental stress. These problems are much more effectively addressed and cured and healing is more thoroughly pronounced and lasting.”


They added that while spa treatment centers have proliferated internationally, the hot baths and curative spas of Greece are among the best because they are rich in trace elements, salts, and other compounds beneficial to the mind and body. “At our unique thermal treatment centers, we understand and employ the ancient knowledge of the benefits of natural hot springs to our bodies. We understand their important role in revitalization, rejuvenation, pain relief and alleviation of chronic fatigue, in addition to bringing about deep relaxation and euphoria.”


To choose a stay at one of five thermal centers, please visit the website of Thermal Greece at www.thermalgreece.com. The centers are open all year round, are in settings of outstanding natural beauty, and offer excellent accommodations. You may choose from spas in Edipsos, Northern Evia; Agistron, Macedonia; Apollonia, near Thessaloniki; Kamena Vourla, 160 km north of Athens, or Loutraki, 80 km west of Athens. Plans are underway to offer thermal bath facilities in Ikaria and Pozar.

TO TELOS (THE END)

Published in The National Herald, February 2014 and on Hellenic Lifestyle ..Celebrating Greek Spirit

Photos by Thermal Greece

Fun Jobs in Greece for Free Room and Board – All Summer Long and Beyond

Would you be willing to care for horses on a farm in Corfu, help someone build a storehouse on Chania, serve as a maid for a small hotel on Naxos, or pick and clean acorns that fall from trees on the island of Kea–all in exchange for room and board?

Do you fancy donating your services for a few months, or do you prefer a year? Welcome to the world of “Help Exchange,” or “HelpX,” an online listing of opportunities that may be a match for you.

“HelpX” is “a cultural exchange for working holiday makers.” Its website lists farms and lodges willing to hosts volunteers for a few months or a year in return for room and board. Some of these opportunities require basic “handyman” skills, but others able to pick and process olives or acorns are welcomed. Hosts look for individuals with a sense of adventure who will enjoy learning new skills and living among the locals. Below are just a few current listings:

Experiencing the Beauty of Omalos

Many tourists who find the hike down the magnificent Gorge of Samaria too challenging may want to consider staying at a lodge in Omalos, the starting point for entering the gorge. Your hosts will offer traditional, Cretan hospitality, plus the experience of being in one of the most dramatically beautiful natural settings on Crete.

Two lodges that come highly recommended by hikers are the Kallergi Lodge, about two hours on foot from the gorge, and Neo Omalos, closer to the gorge’s entrance.

The White Mountains comprise the most famous and spectacular mountain range in Crete. Pachnes is the highest peak at 2452 meters. Omalos is the only village in the White Mountains and is sparsely populated with ten homes. In these mountains there are no lifts or other man-made structures to transport people, and you will be surrounded by nature in all her wild, rustic beauty. It is an area of outstanding natural splendor that some find breathtaking.

Big Fat Cretan Wedding


Decades ago in the mountain villages of Crete, it was traditional for the prospective bride and groom to arrive for their wedding ceremony on splendid, white horses. The bride’s dowry was carried by donkeys striding behind the horses. The groom was in splendid Cretan dress with white shirt and high boots, and the bride, sitting side saddle on her horse, usually wore a flowing gown of white chiffon.


Weddings such as these are not performed these days, but a “mock” Traditional Cretan Wedding takes place every July in Arolithos, a mountain village eleven km from Heraklion. Hundreds of tourists come to see a truly unique reenactment, complete with music, dancing, and the very best Cretan food.


In years gone by, a man known as the kalestís (the person who invites the guests), would go door to door in the village and extend personal invitations to every family. Village elders took charge of all preparations, following the customs explained in George Evangelou Apostolakis’ award-winning book, Traditional Cretan Wedding. Mr. Apostolakis received a special commendation from the Academy of Athens for his work. The academy said it “contributes to the enrichment of the archives of Crete and to the preservation of the facts concerning the folk culture of the country.”


For the wedding of years past, intricate planning was involved to serve thousands of guests. The women focused on two tasks: kneading bread for the wedding rolls and preparing linens for the dowry; the men were responsible for the meat and wine. The women who created the design on the bread were called Xóbliastres and the intricate decorations on the bread were known as xóblia.


The men were responsible for the cellar, where all the food was stored and the meat hung from wooden planks. There were barrels filled with wine and rakí made in the village, and an earthenware jar for olive oil. A “cellar master” ensured that all ran smoothly.


All traditions are not observed for the “mock” ceremony, but they are explained to the tourists. The excitement reaches its peak when the wedding party arrives followed by musicians on foot playing the laoutó and the Cretan lýra (a three-stringed instrument made of wood and played with a bow). The proud people of Arolithos say this is as close to an old-fashioned, Traditional Cretan Wedding as anyone will experience.

The traditional village of Arolithos is a magical place to plan your own wedding, and you can find out more through their website - www.arolithos.com

TELOS

This article was published in The National Herald, April 2014

Photos courtesy of Arolithos Traditional Cretan Village

Askyfou’s Country Bread

All the women in Askyfou (and the men, if truth be told,) agree that the cheese maker’s wife, Maria (God rest her soul), made the best crusty country bread (horiátiko psomí) in all of Askyfou.

It wasn’t that she kept the recipe to herself. Maria would take her dough on a wooden plank to the outdoor brick oven behind Nikos the baker’s house and it was there that she would give her recipe to anyone who asked.

As in other mountain villages, it is the custom on special holidays for women to bake their bread in the communal oven when the baker finishes his own loaves. It is also the practice on any weekday for villagers to bring casseroles for their evening meal to the wood-burning oven and allow them to simmer slowly.

Asi Gonia: Blessing of the Sheep

In the orthodox religion, every profession has a saint and shepherding is no exception. Saint George is the patron saint of shepherds and every year on his day, April 23, there is a spectacular ceremony in the Cretan mountain village of Asi Gonia during which St. George is remembered, the shepherd is honored, and his sheep are blessed after being milked and sheered.

I had the privilege of witnessing this ceremony two years ago. On Easter Monday, shortly after 8 am. the first flock of about 200 sheep came thundering into the village square in sleepy Asi Gonia. Shepherds in traditional Cretan dress quickly herded them in a huge circle around the statues of the town’s heroes. A few, bold renegades broke rank and ran down the hill, followed by most of the flock. The shepherds ran after them, shouting commands and using their distinctive, twisted crooks to bring the sheep into line and back to the town square where they continued their circular meanderings.

Art Space Winery of Santorini


One enters the Art Space Winery of Santorini in Exo Gonia through an underground cavern eight meters below the earth’s surface. Its carved chambers of pumice rock are a work of art and visitors with discriminating eyes will know that the age of this ancient grotto can be seen in the caves and cisterns formed by the island’s unique volcanic ash.


Art Space Winery is, as its name implies, a place for art and a place for wine. Hundreds of artists from all over the world have exhibited their paintings, photographs, sculptures, and jewelry here. It is a working winery producing more than 10,000 bottles of fine wine each year.


 Traditional wine making equipment is on display along with artifacts from a winery in the same location dating back to 1861.


The Museum tells the story of the history of wine making and the craftsmanship employed. The vineyards of Santorini are said to be among “the oldest in the world,” and perhaps its longevity is due to its unique volcanic soil, known to be resistant to the dreaded fungi or insect infestation that have plagued and destroyed many a vineyard.


The Art Space Winery has several features contributing to the production of high quality wine. First, the grapes are organically grown. Secondly, the walls of the winery are dense layers of pumice, six meters thick, creating insulating material and a perfect environment for maturation and ageing of the wine.


Finally, the vinification—the conversion of grape juice into wine through fermentation–takes place on three different levels, thus taking advantage of gravity and natural flow without the use of pumps.


An old, pre-industrial winery that began operation in 1861 remained in operation until 1952 when its third owner, Nikolaos A. Argyros, closed its doors to establish SantoWines, the largest winery on the island. In 1999 Mr. Argyros’ son, Antonis, brought the old winery back to life and founded Art Space Winery.


Whether you are interested exclusively in wine or exclusively in art, you should not leave Santorini without visiting Art Space.


Where else can you wander through a cave, learn about the history of wine-making, see modern wine making in progress, and be treated to exquisite works of art. Indeed, it is a very special “space.”

TELOS

Published in The National Herald, June 2014 and on Hellenic Lifestyle ... Celebrating Greek Spirit

Special thanks to Art Space for all the photos. Visit them at www.artspace-santorini.com

In the Mountainous Village of Tsintzina, Doing Nothing is Really Something!

I experienced Greece in an entirely new way when I went to a mountain village because I was told there was absolutely nothing to do there but walk in the woods during the day and sit at a taverna at night. To get there I had to start from Sparti and convince a taxi driver to transport me up the 1,900 meter, precarious road.

Many taxis were parked in front of my hotel but I could not get a driver. A young female drove up, wearing jeans and boots and walked with a sense of purpose through the phalanx of men, asking, “Are you the woman who wants to go to Tsintzina?” When I said yes, she motioned to her cab, made some sort of signal to the men (!!), and off we went.

Kardamili: An Ancient Love Nest

I went deep into Mani to Kardamili and my senses were alive. I smelled the salty sea, thyme-covered mountains, grapes, and currants. I tasted wine called “Hercules Blood,” touched the mystic caverns of the awesome Diros Caves, and heard the shrill sounds of the cicadas. What I wanted most of all, however, was to see the ancient love nest of Helen of Troy and Paris, the young Prince and son of Priam, the Trojan King. I was in Peloponnese making my way toward it.

Kardamili was the home of Patrick Leigh Fermor, the great Philhellene travel writer and English commando in Crete during World War II, and rumors were that he was seen at times in a local pub. Driving deep into the rugged paths of Mani, the scents of thyme, rosemary, grapes, and currants were in the air. Towers appeared on the torn, barren land then disappeared just as suddenly. The town was wild and naked, night was falling, and there was not a pub in sight.

Airport-Side Luxury: the Sofitel in Athens

The Sofitel Hotel at Athens Airport is the perfect respite for travelers who need relaxation and pampering after a stimulating holiday in Greece, and before boarding the airplane for the long trip home. If you were on the mainland or the islands for two weeks or two months, you owe yourself the convenience of unwinding in an outstanding oasis of tranquility, literally steps from the airport.

It is a luxurious five-star facility with French art de recevoir and overlooks the lovely Mesoghaia (middle earth) Valley. If you are staying for a few days, a Concierge can arrange a guided tour of Athens or, if your desire is to visit the Greek islands, private transportation to Piraeus can be arranged. Do your travel plans allow you to stay for one night only? The Sofitel is your best choice, especially if you have an early morning flight. You are 50 meters from the entrance to the airport; there is no need to awaken earlier than necessary to board a shuttle bus.

Adventure and Discovery on Corfu

Gerald Durrell, an English naturalist and zookeeper, and his brother, Lawrence, an expatriate, prolific novelist and travel writer, lived on the island of Corfu during the 1930s and considered it “the paradise we loved.” Together, the brothers produced seminal works in their respective fields and in 2002 the Durrell School of Corfu was established in their memory.

The School is now accepting reservations for the May 3-10, 2014 “Week of Adventure and Discovery” centered on events and experiences in the life of Gerald Durrell. Participants can explore the plant and animal life on the island as they take gentle walks across mountains and coastal paths to see the variety of wildlife in an unspoiled habitat.

Expert guides are on hand to help in the identification of flora and fauna as you enjoy the beautiful landscape and magnificent views. According to the School’s website, www.durrell-school-corfu.org,

“‘We hope that there will be fireflies at night to guide you and butterflies in hedges and forests to greet you.’ We fear that the magic of this sight which so enchanted the young Gerry Durrell may one day be lost forever, due to the effects of modern farming. However here on Corfu, it is still possible to be mesmerized and disorientated with the flashing lights by which the males attract the females.

‘We hope that there will still the extraordinary varieties of creatures sharing the land of the planet with you to enchant you and enrich your lives.’ The two direct quotations are attributed to Gerald Durrell himself. There is a range of accommodation from villas, apartments or rooms with a local family, all set close to the study center. For further information, visit the school’s website at www.durrell-school-corfu.org. To make reservations, send an email to Alexia Ashcroft at durrellschool@gmail.com

Also according to the website: “Moderators and Distinguished Visiting Writers in recent years included David Bellamy, Lee Durrell, Hugh Bennison, Jeremy Mallison, Nicholas Gage, Sir Michael Llewellyn-Smith, Jan Morris Peter Mackridge, and Mark Morris.”

TELOS

Published in The National Herald, February 2014

A Unique Resort Serving the Physically Disabled

People with physical disabilities who have avoided travel to Greece will be delighted to know that a resort in Chania, Crete, has been designed exclusively for them and their families with all accessibility needs in mind. The Eria Resort is the first facility of its kind to open in Greece, and it offers state-of-the art facilities, equipment, and conveniences so that persons with physical disabilities may enjoy a very pleasant and enjoyable holiday on Crete.

Specifically, the functional hotel has comfortably adapted rooms and bathrooms, adapted equipment, a heated, ramped pool, planned activities, physiotherapy, a gym, spa services, and other athletic facilities. Two adapted mini buses offer transfer from and to the airport and take guests on accessible excursions.

Literary Festival on Tinos

A multinational gathering of writers and poets took place on the Cycladic island of Tinos during the island’s fourth Tinos International Literary Festival. The three day event ended July 26, and was a celebration of contemporary literature by writers from Cyprus, Greece, the United States, Mexico, Israel, Denmark, Croatia, Albania, and Kurdistan.

Dinos Siotis serves as Artistic Director. The Society of Dekata hosted the festival and co-organizers included the Tinos Municipality, the Pan-Hellenic Holy Foundation of Evangelistria of Tinos, and the Tinos Cultural Foundation. Sponsors worked together to combine culture and tourism so that participants enjoyed both the works of various authors while exploring the beauty of Tinos.

In Cyclades: 2 Goddesses, 1 Temptress


The magic of Greece is in its very ambiguity, in the tensions that pull it from one wonderful, delicious extreme to the other. The senses are pleased and pampered by the serene beauty of Greece found in the depth of its vistas, the spectacular sunrises and sunsets, and the radiance of the light that even the poets cannot adequately describe. The senses are titillated and tempted, also, by Greece’s extremes of food and drink, flesh, nightlife, music, and the burning sun.

Perhaps this tension is best exemplified in the islands that form an ancient triangle in the very heart of the Cyclades. They are cosmopolitan Mykonos, Sacred Delos, and mysterious Rhinia. Taken together, these sisters with their distinctive and contradictory personalities give the visitor a tantalizing taste of Greece known mainly to Greeks who live in the Cyclades.

Within this triangle, one can sunbathe on some of the most beautiful beaches in Greece, literally dance until dawn at discos, take a magical, chartered cruise through the islands, go back in time with the ancients on an island declared “sacred” by the Greek government, or spend an enchanted day alone on an uninhabited island where gentle waves caress a pristine shore, luscious watermelons hang from vines, and where the pure air is so still you can hear yourself breath.


MYKONOS. Mykonos, the temptress, will seduce you with her charms. The occasional naughty sister is famous worldwide for her chalk-white beauty and vibrant nightlife. Sometimes called “Little Venice” or “The Capri of Greece,” Mykonos is considered by many to be the most cosmopolitan and sophisticated of the Greek islands and offers the very best in accommodations, food, and ambiance to the visitor.


DELOS. If Mykonos represents secular pleasures sought by the jet set, Delos is its opposite and the most sacred of the Greek islands. At the very geographical center of the Cyclades, Delos is its spiritual center as well and was the religious, cultural, and commercial focal point of ancient Greece. It was the jewel of the ancient world, a thriving commercial hub, and the “summer home” of the rich and famous of the time. Delos’ past glory is seen in the magnificent ruins and in exquisite, world-famous mosaic floors of the ruined palaces.


RHINIA. The third sister is Rhinia, a haunting, mysterious island four times the size of Delos and separated from it by a small strait. Called alternatively “Great Delos” and “Big Delos,” Rhinia is really two sections connected by a narrow isthmus. There are four, pristine, sandy beaches, each with its own characteristics, on the uninhabited island.


By Greek law, excerpt for a home built for a captain who supervised the quarantine of ships in the early 1900s, no one is allowed to live on this island or build a permanent home there; there is no running water or electricity and there are no roads on its rocky, hilly terrain. (There are rumors, however, of a few hearty souls who make the island their home in shepherd’s huts.) Very few tourists know about the island or have an interest in going there on a day’s excursion.


If you have a sense of adventure, it is possible to set foot on Rhinia. Simply go to the harbor of Mykonos when the fishing boats arrive in early morning and make a deal with a fisherman to take you there and bring you back. Back your bathing suit, food and wine, a blanket, and an ample supply of suntan lotion.

Published in The National Herald, December 2013