The Quarantine of Delos

And I live here ... fishing with my son 

around the small Delos and the Great Delos

~ Panagiotis D. Faroupos, Captain, The Quarantine of Delos

As soon as Panagiotis D. Faroupos, the captain, and his splendid ship, The Quarantine of Delos, come into my view, I know that the gods have smiled upon me. What I do not know is that I am about to embark on an adventure that few people have ever dreamed of and that it will be one of the most enchanting experiences of my many odysseys in Greece.

The Quarantine of Delos. What a beauty. What a seductress. Only two of her kind remain today. The other is “The Dolphin of Delos,” also owned by the Captain. Seafaring men who know their ships have called The Quarantine one of the most perfect crafts ever made. She is the long-time mistress of Captain Panagiotis and she serves him alone. Meticulously handmade by Greek craftsmen Karavoskaro-style from wood, she is a sailing cruiser and her slender frame stretches over seventeen meters. Her look is one of pure elegance. When you see her you are captivated and when your hands caress the smoothness of her rich, nut-brown timber, it is difficult not to fall in love. You did not have to even board her or wait until she sets sail to know that few ships have more stability.

The Quarantine has been made into a cruise boat with totally modern elements and equipment, (17 years old) yet retains traces of ancient times. This is her distinctiveness and charm.

This ship serves the tourists who come to the beautiful island of Mykonos, known as the most cosmopolitan of all the Greek islands. It attracts a sophisticated, international clientele of movie stars, rock stars, models, world-famous athletes, politicians and royalty. The rich and the powerful are known to vacation here, along with the savvy sun-seekers who save all year for two weeks to party, shop, and sun on one of the most dazzling vacation spots in Cyclades.

Tourists board The Quarantine of Delos at Mykonos and sail to the sacred island of Delos, graced with mysterious, silent ancient monuments.  They can go as singles, as a couple, or as a group (the boat holds 45) and cruise around the Cyclades.  Private tours may be arranged that end with a barbeque on a private beach on the uninhabited island.

The Quarantine is approaching me and I see the Captain. It is difficult to picture anyone else at the helm except Captain Panagiotis. In his youth, he acquired the distinctive nickname “Dillanos,” (meaning “from Delos”) given to other men in his family. He carries this with pride; not many men can claim the place of their origin as “Delos.”

Delos is considered by the Greeks to be “a sacred island” and for a long period in ancient times no one was allowed to be born or buried there. Pregnant women were taken to nearby Rhinia to give birth and warriors and others who died were buried on Rhinia.

I wait near the ancient ruins on the sacred island (called Great Delos or Big Delos) to board The Quarantine; we then set sail for Rhinia (Little Delos), a nearby island where again there are restrictions set by the Greek government. No one is allowed to live on Rhinia except a few stockbreeders and fishermen, who have temporary shelters. I will spend three enchanting nights alone on the island with a cat who will be my constant companion. Then I will board The Quarantine again and set sail for my sea-side room on Mykonos. While on Rhinia, I will be enveloped with silence and solitude and the rosy-fingered dawn and black-robed night will reward me with shameless displays of their splendor.

Before I share with you the enchantment of my time on Rhinia, allow me to provide some background information:

THE ANCIENT TRIANGLE

 In the heart of the Cycladic islands, there are three islands that form an ancient triangle. They are cosmopolitan Mykonos, sacred Delos, and mysterious Rhinia. These sisters have distinctive and contradictory personalities and show visitors three tantalizing faces of Greece. Visitors from all over the world come to Mykonos for its night life and pristine beaches; on Delos they walk among the ancient ruins that some consider sacred. Very few foreigners, however, have ever set foot on Rhinia and no one is allowed to live on the island, except Captain Panagiotis.

THE QUARANTINE OF DELOS

The ship is named after the period before the 1900’s when ships entering the Cycladic islands had to remain in quarantine on Rhinia for forty days until they were judged free of disease. The sailors were examined by doctors and received health certificates before being allowed to sail to the commercial harbor of Syros.

While in quarantine, the sailors were looked after by Captain Panagiotis’ grandfather, Panais Faroupo, who was a fisherman married to Catherine Fournista. The couple tended to sheep, goats, and a few cows and from their milk they made traditional cheeses, such as Kopanisti and Tyrovolia. Working diligently, they plowed the arid land and with great care and labor and they cultivated black-eyed beans and barley.

The barley was said by some to be one of the best types grown from ancient times up to the Venetian and Turkish occupation. It had been exported to Europe for beer production. As a result of Panais and Catherine Faroupos’ industriousness on this small piece of land, they were able to nourish the sailors with their excellent cheese, sour milk, beans, barley, and other produce that today would be as highly prized as it was then.

They lived comfortably in a sturdy stone house built in the early 1900’s and occupied and ceded to them in 1925. The house was passed on to the captain’s parents, Dimitris and Spiridoula Faroupos; until a few years ago, the Captain’s mother lived there year-round. It is now maintained by the Captain, his wife, Dionysia, and son, Dimitris. They have two daughters, Spyridoyla and Konstantina.

THE CAPTAIN

“I grew up in Delos with the boats, the rocks, the sun and the sea. I live with the waves I will die close to them.” Captain Panagiotis

Captain Panagiotis was born on Rhinia into a family of fishermen; his father fished during the day and in the evenings served as a night watchman on ancient Delos. He grew up on Rhinia and went to school on Mykonos, completed the obligatory military service in the navy, and when he married he followed his father’s footsteps: he fished during the day and served as a night guardian on ancient Delos. Within a few years he purchased the two ships and began taking tourists on cruises. It is one of the most popular activities offered for visitors to Mykonos. .

THE CAPTAIN’S STATEMENT

“Born on Delos and coming from a family lineage that dates back to the time of sailing ships, I was brought up in the aura of the island's immense cultural heritage. Of all the charters I run, it is the day trip to Delos, birthplace of the god Apollo, that I personally enjoy the most.

Whether we first stop at Delos to see the ancient site or sail directly to the nearby island of Rhinia, we eventually decide on an anchorage that could be at any number of beautiful isolated coves. To round off the day, just before sunset we arrive at my family’s original seaside stone cottage on Rhinia. Here we dig into a cookout of charcoal grilled fish in true traditional Cycladic style.

When we finally sail for home at the end of the day my biggest reward is that I know this day's adventures will guarantee everyone on board the cherished memory of a lifetime.

A private cruise is an ideal way to enjoy a day with your family, friends or corporate group; the Quarantine can accommodate up to forty-five people. Our cruise can include visits to both the commercial and quiet beaches that circle the island, or we can sail off to any number of neighboring destinations. The departure point, destination and cruise duration is your choice. Our ships will transport you from a humdrum daily life to a dreamlike adventure.”

THE JOURNEY LEADING TO THE DISCOVERY OF MYSELF

I asked the Captain for special permission to stay alone in his house because I wanted total solitude while I read and corrected the final proofs for the manuscript of my new novel, Labyrinthine Ways. I had been doing research and writing for the past eight and one-half years and it had been my dream to read it one last time alone on an island before sending it to Cosmos Publishing, my publisher. I wondered how I would feel about being alone.

I felt favored by the gods to have connections leading me to the Captain, who gave me his permission. After a brief tour of the house, Captain Panagiotis sailed away; I was then alone on the island, or so I thought.

I heard purring sounds that were so sweet and gentle I thought it was the wind. Soon my ankles were being circled and caressed by silken fur and I looked down to see a golden cat looking at me with total trust. “Meow,” she said, and I answered likewise. She captured my heart and I wondered what name she had or what name I could give her.

I walked around the house and then down to the sea for a long stroll. When I returned, I remembered to place my Greek-style picnic basket—plenty of bread, fruit, stuffed grape leaves, feta cheese, olives, tomatoes— in the cooler. I was glad I included a few cans of tuna, because this golden-haired feline at my feet appeared to be hungry, so I opened a can and she went right to it. She appeared well cared for and I guessed (correctly) that the captain fed her during his many back and forth trips. “What shall I call her,” I wondered, then decided I did not know her well enough to give her a name.

After feeding her I took another long walk by the beach because it looked so beautiful in the afternoon sun and besides, it was mine alone.

How often does a person get to be alone on a island with the sand and sea to herself? My companion followed along after me, as a dog would. I took advantage of the solitude to swim natural in the sea and then rested on my towel and allowed the sun to dry me. It was still light and bright and I wanted to give myself time to finish editing the manuscript for my new novel. I relished having the experience of doing my final edit in absolute peace; not many authors can do this.

I was discovering also, how content I felt being alone.

(I wondered if Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, who was a writer and an editor, ever worked on her books while living on Skorpios, the private island in the Ionian Sea owned by her husband, Aristotle Onassis. They were married on Skorpios and lived there from time to time. It was tantalizing to think that if Mrs. Onassis worked on her books while alone on the island, then she and I had something in common.)

I took a slow walk back to the house, found a comfortable spot on the expansive patio, spread my manuscript over the table, popped open an iced-tea, and began to edit.

It was so peaceful with just the sounds of nature. I wished I could freeze these moments and remember all of the sensations, if not in reality, at least in memory, The time went by so quickly that I suddenly remembered I had forgotten to eat. So I prepared my picnic lunch, opened a bottle of wine, and enjoyed the stillness. The cat nibbled again at her feast of tuna. Feeling tired, but relaxed, I decided to take a little nap and then awaken to watch the sunset.

I slept soundly and do not know how long I dozed. I was awakened by the cat rubbing against me and purring. “Okay cat,” I said, “I am getting up.” She moved away, looked back at me and gave me verbal signals that she wanted me to follow.

The bedroom had no windows, but there was some light in the room. I seldom wear a watch while in Greece, and I had no idea if it was day or night. I went back on the patio, she jumped next to me and actually cuddled, and together we watched the dazzling setting of the sun.

Her eyes were fixed on the scene before her, gazing intensively with the look that only cats have; the amazed , startled, and utterly concentrated look of someone seeing something for the first time.

I knew that her actions in the bedroom were deliberate and that she was summoning me so I did not miss the evening ballet of the orange sun setting and the white moon rising. I envied her the ability to see the same scene anew each day and night with total wonder.

Cats have that gift. So I looked at her with true awe gave her a hug, and decided I would give her a name to describe not only my feelings for the journey the captain created just for me, but my feelings for Rhinia and her.

I called her Aphrodite. I wanted to be just like her—alone on an island, seeing each day and night with fresh eyes and awe, enveloped in the enchantment of my very own Aegean adventure. Like the poet, C.P. Cavafy, I yearned for my journey to be long.

With thanks to Mykonos Boat Rental for some of the wonderful photos.

Sifnos: Stairway to Heaven

Of all the islands in the Western Cyclades, some say Sifnos may be the most “spiritual.” There is a church with fresco interiors where it is said angels come to sing before the priest starts his service, there is a bay so serene it appears to kneel before you, and there is a stairway beside a brilliant, white-washed monastery that is rumored to lead to, well… heaven.

And all of these enchanting places are easily accessible from Dina’s Rooms in the island’s main port of Kamares. Dina’s rooms are on a horseshoe-shaped bay on the quiet side of the gentle body of brilliant blue-green water. It is a perfect setting for those wanting peace and solitude, but just a short walk to the shops and tavernas and the bus stop across the bay.

During the day, one can sunbathe on the veranda (or on the nearby beach or rocks just minutes away) and in the evening it is pleasant to view the bright lights of the tavernas and the famous “Captain’s Bar,” on the other side. Yachtsmen come from all over Greece to have a drink with the captain and party into early morning hours. Guests at Dina’s are happy they are on the opposite side of the bay!

The Arguras Restaurant and Taverna is next to Dina’s Rooms and it is without a doubt the best restaurant in Kamares and one of the best dining spots on the entire island. Fresh fish is served daily and the catch comes directly from the morning boats. Arguras, the owner, will grill a fish to perfection and his wife, Stella, makes a variety of Greek specialties for the afternoon and evening meals. Guests are invited into the kitchen to make their selections.

Sifnos is a mountainous island with small valleys filled with olive and almond trees and numerous beaches with thin, golden sand. It has a triangular shape of seventy-four square miles and a perimeter of twenty-eight miles.

Kamares is centrally located and a bus near the newsstand will take one to many points, including the port of Faros, within ten to twenty minutes. Photographers come from all over the world to take pictures of the famous monasteries, particularly the Monastery of Panaghia Chryssopighi, a magnificent snow-white structure with the stairway to heaven. It sits dramatically on a rock that some say was split during a miracle performed by the Virgin Mary, patron saint and protector of the island. Sifnos is approximately five hours by boat from Piraeus, and the trip is shorter by Flying Dolphin. Connections can be made easily to the nearby islands of Paros, Syros, Kythnos, Serifos, Folegandros, Sikinos, and Santorini. Boats also leave regularly for Crete, Ios, and the Dodecanese.

In Crete’s Mountains – The Legend of the 12 Archontopoula

If you are fortunate enough to visit one of the remote mountain villages of Crete, and if you are not fluent in the language, but have the services of a local translator, you will hear one of the most fascinating stories ever told. The tale has been transmitted as “oral history” for years in the mountain tavernas, but it is usually told as though it happened yesterday.

It is the compelling and intriguing tale of The Legend of the Twelve Archontopoula. While much of the story is unauthenticated, it has captured the attention of professional and amateur historians, genealogists, sociologists, mystery lovers, and a large number of Cretans.

While many Cretans claim they are descendants of one of the twelve, there are some actual descendants who are not aware of their true lineage. What is this tantalizing legend? What is truth and what is fiction?

Let us go back in time to the 12th Century in Constantinople, then known as Byzantium, when Byzantium ruled Crete. It is said there was unrest in Crete. Most believe there was a rebellion. And so, the story or legend goes, a Byzantine emperor sent the heads of twelve noble Byzantine families to settle in Crete and he divided the island amongst them. The largest piece, which included Sfakia, went to a man named Skordylis.

At some point, most likely during the time of Venetian rule, a claim was made that there was an official document (an order) signed by an emperor. The document was called a chrysobull (golden seal) and it gave the twelve men royal lineage. The chrysobull has never been found, but there are six documents concerning the Archontopoula that have been published; of the six, historians consider just two to be the most interesting.

These two documents, however, contain historical information that historians consider “mutually irreconcilable.” One document actually has the notation “Falsification,” and there are three versions of the second, two written in Greek and one in Italian, but only one of them (Greek) is dated. Historians cannot agree on whether the documents are authentic or “suspect.”

It is a fact, however, that by the beginning of the 13th Century certain Cretan families owned much land, lived as landed aristocracy and led revolts against the Venetians.

Whether they were actually sent here originally by an emperor has not been proven. Whether an “order” or chrysobull was ever issued has not been proven. And whether they were of “great and noble birth” is not known, but it makes for one of the most fascinating stories still told in the tavernas in the mountains of Crete.

Published in The National Herald.

Lesvos: Where the Owls Fall from the Trees

The island of Lesvos has several species of owls, but in the villages of Vatousa and Xidera you will find an inordinately large population of the Scops Owl, all because several years ago on a hot summer day a baby Scops fell out of a tree. Villagers delight in telling the tale to tourists and the actual size of the owl population seems to get larger with each telling. Here is the back story:

A writer from the States rented a home for the summer near the kafenion in the Platia in the village of Vatousa. One day while sipping his cappuccino and minding his own business, a baby owl fell from its nest in the tree above and landed at his feet. The kindly man took the tiny bird home and cared for him until he was well enough and strong enough to fly away.

Despite the fact that the owl was considered a sign of wisdom in antiquity, in many Greek villages today the owl is considered a symbol of bad luck. Children are taught to avoid the bird at all costs. The writer saw children running from him in terror when they saw him holding the owl. Gradually, curiosity grew and when no ill will came to the man, the attitude of the villagers and children changed.

Apparently it was rather common for the little owls to fall from trees and soon, instead of ignoring them, the villagers carefully cradled them in their arms and brought them to the writer’s home where owls were flying about or resting on a large rock in the kitchen.

Owls have many moods and are to be avoided when they are annoyed, but the writer says most of the time “they were playful as kittens.” He estimates that he raised eleven owls, although villagers give larger numbers. Since that fateful summer day when the first baby owl fell from the tree, the Scopes Owl population in Vatousa and nearby Xidera has grown exponentially.

Lesvos is indeed a “birdwatcher’s paradise,” and a bonus is an explosion of wild flowers in the Spring. Purchase a copy of Richard Brooks guide “Birding in Lesvos” by sending an email to email@richardbrooks. co.uk and head for Lesvos. He says the very best place to see large varieties of birds on Lesvos is at Skala Kaloni, but if you fancy the Scops Owl, by all means pay a visit to Vartousa and Xidera.

Published in the National Herald.

Eros visits Sfakia

“Oh my god, I am in love. I cannot sleep. I am not hungry. My stomach, how do you say, goes up and down. “ He takes a deep breath and grins widely, giggling at the same time, but struggling for breath. And then he tells the story.

“She is blonde, blue eyes. You never saw such blue eyes. Look at the sea in front of you. Her eyes are bluer that that. Ah , shit. I would not lie to you. I swear on the Holy Virgin. This goddess, she is from the States.. Works at Google. High class.. Second time here. She meets me once. We just talk. She comes back. We meet here. She likes me. Can you believe that? Oh my god, I wish I could eat.”

“I never met anyone like her. She is here now. Second time. This time I surprise her. I pay for her room. She goes to pay for it, man says, sorry, your room is already paid for. She says who pays for it? He says your friend from Sfakia. She says,” Oh my god.”

“She tells me, you do not have to do this. I say I do this for you. . She says oh my god. You would not believe how beautiful she is. I can hardly breathe when I tell you about her. Yesterday was our day. All day. We start at 9 am in the morning and go far into the night, no the morning hours. I cannot tell you everything. Really it would not be right. But I tell you some.”

“I plan many surprises for her. I take her to Loutro on the boat and just before we arrive I tell her close your eyes. When we get close to Loutro, I tell her to open them. She says Oh my god. I look at her so happy and shining and I say for sure she is a goddess. She makes my eyes not see. Do you know what I mean? Sometimes when I look at her, how do you say, a fog goes over my eyes and I cannot see. And I feel dizzy. Sometimes I feel weak. I am a strong man. Only 18 , but almost 19, and I am strong. Look at me. Don’t I look strong? I work hard all day. I carry three some times four tubs of ice up stairs to put in case for the fish. Myself I carry these. At night I take down the heavy umbrellas and carry them downstairs. By myself.”

“We have lunch, I tell her I will order. I order sardines, octopus, red mullet, prawns, and she say sweetheart, we cannot eat all of that. She does not know I order little pieces of everything. She says she has never eaten like that. I watch her eat. I watch her take the fork and put the fish into her mouth and I swallow hard, watching the fork go into her mouth. I take a few bites. I am not hungry. My mouth is dry. I look again at her blue eyes and I look at the sea and I say oh my god.”

After lunch I tell her we must go back to Sfakia, but I do not tell her why. Another surprise. She say why. I tell her trust me, you will like it. We get back and get into another boat. I tell her close your eyes until I put something into the boat. She does and I tell her okay now you can open them, but I hide what I put into the boat. We go far out and she says how beautiful the sea is. I look at her long hair like gold, blowing in the wind. I touch her to see if she is real. Ah shit, I am in love.”

“We get to where I want to be and I say now close your eyes again and she does and I say now open them and she does and I give her the snorkel mask I had hidden. She says she never gone snorkeling before and I say I teach you. We go into the water and we see, I cannot describe it, we see what lives in the sea. Everything that swims and grows we see. We see colors we never see on land. We come up and get into the boat and I ask her how she liked that and she says “oh my god.”

“We go by the shore and I say we are going up that small hill and she says she has only sandals—she points to my feet and says that I have no shoes. I say no problem and I surprise her and take off her sandals then—listen to this---then I pick her up and carry her up over the rocks in my bare feet. And she says oh my god you will cut your feet and oh my god you are so strong. But I laugh all the way to the top, holding her tight.”

So we rest up there and then, this is the part of the story I want you to hear, she kisses me!!! Holy Mother of God!!! Now look at me. Tell me my color. You will say, with kindness, my friend, you are a dark-skinned man. I take no offense. But after she kisses me she looks as me and she says, sweetheart you are pale. I tell her no, but I do feel the blood drain from me and I say Oh, shit.”

We take the boat back to Sfakia and we have drinks at her hotel near the sea and then, when I can stand it no longer, we go to her room. I said I cannot tell you everything . It would not be right. But I can tell you her lips are like rose petals and her skin as soft as a cloud. When she kisses me I feel as though I am drowning. And all night long she keeps saying oh my god, oh my god, oh my god. Ah shit, I think I am in love.”

TELOS

The Natural, Wild, and Rugged Beauty of Sfakia, Crete

In Chora Sfakion, the harbor village and capitol of the very wild and rugged area of Crete known as Sfakia, time passes slowly and is marked by the arrivals and departures of a majestic ferry boat named Daskalogiannis. Located South of Chania, Sfakia is one of the most barren and rugged areas of Crete. It is a mountainous area famous for the Lefka Ori or “White Mountains,” so named for the white limestone peaks that shine in the summer and are covered with snow in the winter.

It appeals to visitors who like natural beauty and a craggy topography; it appeals to those who like to hike gorges, go deep sea diving or snorkeling, and swim in “sweet” water. If you like the challenge of hiking gorges and if you treasure peace, quiet, and solitude in an unspoiled setting of natural beauty where “the mountains meet the sea,” this is the place for you. This very descriptive phrase was written by Xan Fielding in his book, The Stronghold, describing the four seasons of Crete; it is frequently quoted in guidebooks to describe Sfakia.

The unique character of Sfakia has been immortalized by an artful photographer named Wolfgang Kistler who has been taking pictures here for more than thirty years. For Mr. Kistler, Sfakia is “the hub of the world.” When he began his photographic odyssey of Greece, he saw and took pictures of most of the inhabited Greek islands, (estimates on how many are inhabited vary according to the source) which he found “marvelous, archaic, beautiful, fascinating,” but every trip ended in Sfakia. Please visit his web site at http://www.wkistler.de/

On Mr. Kistler’s web site, you will find thousands of photographs. Exciting additions are those taken in Sfakia during World War II of the German occupation and the fabled Cretan resistance. He and a friend discovered the archival material in Germany in Bundesarchiv Koblenz. A web cam that records the daily arrivals and departures of the Daskalogiannis ferry can be found at www.webcam-crete.com.

Locals call the White Mountains “Madares,” sometimes translated as “nude, or “without coverage,” or “a barren place.” There are many tall peaks and the largest is said to be Pachnes, rising to 2,453 meters.

Chora Sfakion makes an outstanding base for hikers and, according to two different web sites, approximately twenty different hiking routes start from here. One guidebook on display on a table outside the Lefka Ori Hotel in the village describes nine magnificent hikes of varying degrees of difficulty; the text is interspersed with very attractive color photographs.

The most famous hike in Sfakia, however, is the incomparable and world-renowned Gorge of Samaria, which some say is the largest in Europe. Located in the National Park of Samaria, the gorge is 16 km in length, more or less, and is one the longest in Europe. It begins on the plain of Omalos and ends at the Libyan sea in Agia Roumeli.

Hikers use Chora Sfakion as a base. Its bay is small and horseshoe shaped and there are only 400 full-time residents. Although it is relatively small and compact, there is a nice selection of places to stay, ranging from one modern hotel that has a lift to very basic and simple “rooms.” The food served by the various tavernas is excellent and the chefs excel in preparing vegetarian dishes with fresh produce grown locally; the fish comes from the boats of the local fishermen.

You will also find a potent drink made from the skin of the grapes called raki (also called tsikoudia) served at the tavernas; it is a complimentary drink offered with desert. You can buy gift bottles of this in the shops to take back to friends, but be aware of what size bottle the airline will permit you to carry on board. My large bottle purchased as a gift was confiscated at customs, and I almost wept as I saw it being looked at with desire by the attendant and then reluctantly thrown into the round cylinder. I wondered if he would retrieve it later and I hope he did!!

It is very peaceful and serene and you will never hear music coming from any of the shops or tavernas. This is because a number of years ago business owners voted to ban music so quests would hear only the sound of gently splashing waves, and in the very warm months, a chorus of cicadas. The cicadas make their distinctive trilling sounds as the waves splash gently on the harbor. Your senses will be soothed by this gentle lullaby.

TELOS

This article was published in Hellenic Lifestyle ... Celebrating Greek Spirit

A Magical Night on the Sacred Island of Delos

All guide-books and all guides will tell you that no one is allowed, by law, to stay on Delos overnight, but there is a wonderful story about how

LAWRENCE DURRELL, THE FAMOUS PHILHELLENE AND ENGLISH AUTHOR, MANAGED TO DO THIS AND HAVE THE MOST MAGICAL NIGHT OF HIS LIFE.

In his book, “The Greek Islands,” Durrell explains how he gained the cooperation of a boatman, practiced a slight deception on the men guarding Delos, and spent a romantic and spiritual night on the sacred island under the protection of Apollo himself.

Durrell hired a boatman named Janko to take him and his wife to the Bay of Phourni, below the old site of the abandoned Aesculapion. He had with him a sack that contained beer, bread, meat, and fruit and he also had sleeping bags. Janko dropped them off early in a very secluded area and then left. This was not unusual and it did not alert the guards, because it was the custom for small boats to drop visitors off, then return in the early evening to take them back.

The boatman came back to Delos, as Durrell planned, but then returned to Mykonos without his passengers. Janko’s part of the deception was to make sure the guards saw the boat leaving; he knew the guards would assume passengers were on board, but they were not. Durrell said the evening was perfect with Apollo protecting them, Zephyr controlling the calm breezes, and Aphrodite orchestrating the sunset. They swam nude by the rising moon and came back to drink the warm soup and coffee from the thermos flasks thoughtfully brought by Janko.

As dusk fell, they snuggled in their sleeping bags, but were awakened at midnight by the brilliant, white light of the moon. Deciding to prowl among the ruins, they climbed over rocks and through barbed wire, and did not need lights because, according to Durrell, “we could have read a newspaper by the moon’s light.”

They came upon what must have been the floor of a villa and, by the light of the moon, saw what looked like an ordinary fish design. Durrell went to the sea for a pail of water, splashed the seawater over the floor, and, like a photograph developing in a tray, the head of the most beautiful dolphin emerged. It was one of the famous mosaics that would be viewed by the public in later years, but he and his wife saw it long before others.

Durrell described Delos as “silent and ominous” at night with snakes and lizards slithering about, but he said it was also magical. When the moon gave up its brilliance, they managed to sleep once again and in the early morning the boatman returned. Reluctantly, they boarded the boat this time and returned to Mykonos.

The island itself is relatively small—six kilometers long and 1,500 meters wide, but is monumental in Greek history and mythology and was one of the most important and glorious civilizations the world has ever known. Delos is not only the geological center of the Cyclades, but was

THE COMMERCIAL, RELIGIOUS, AND CULTURAL CENTER OF ANCIENT GREECE.

Delos is the birthplace of Apollo, the god of light and his sister, Artemis, goddess of hunting. They were born under a palm tree to Leto of the lovely hair who was impregnated by Zeus. Zeus chose Delos for the birth because he had to find a sanctuary for Leto, far from the eyes of his jealous wife, Hera. Delos means “that which appeared” and was so named because it suddenly appeared in the waves and sheltered Leto from Hera’s eyes. That is the wonderful myth of Delos.

History tells us, however, that the island was probably first inhabited in 3000 B.C. and at the end of the fourth century it developed into a major commercial center, competing with Rhodes. By Roman times, Delos had roughly 25,000 inhabitants. Archaeologists uncovered evidence of Ionians living here in the 7th century B.C., followed through the centuries by Athenians, Delians, Egyptians, Syrians, and Romans.

It was the jewel of the Aegean Sea and was the summer home of the rich and famous of the time. It was magnificent and majestic. Rumor has it that Cleopatra had a summer home here, but there is no archaeological evidence to support it, although the search goes on.

Delos’ rule over the sea was established around 478 B.C., when a Delian confederacy was formed to bring neighboring islands under its influence. Lavish festivals were held every five years to honor the gods, large barges brought animals from neighboring islands for sacrifice, and the most nubile Delian maidens were chosen to dance and sing hymns in honor of the gods.

The island was once a burial ground for Delians, but sometime around 426 BC. , in order to secure the favor of Apollo and incidentally, to gain control of the shrine’s treasurers, the bones of those who died there were removed to Rhinia, a nearby island where a new burial ground was created. Also, from that point forward, women who were about to give birth were taken to Rhinia for the occasion. In effect, no one was allowed to be born or to die on the island.

The island’s fall was sudden and brutal. In 88 B.C.. during the Mithriadic War, all inhabitants were slaughtered and the mansions and temples desecrated and demolished. Next, an army of barbarians burned the island and for years after that pirates came to pick over the remains. It was not until late in the 19th century that archaeologists began excavations that revealed the glory of Delos and encouraged the Greek government to establish strict rules for this site.

The French School of Archaeology began excavations in 1872 and in 1904, what is known as “the great excavation” took place. This is when many public buildings and private houses were uncovered and some were partly reconstructed. Work is still in progress. Five of the magnificent nine lions that are symbols of Delos have been removed to a museum to protect them from corrosion and the proud lions one sees now on the Avenue of the Lions are casts of the originals.

TELOS

This article was published on Hellenic Lifestyle ... Celebrating Greek Spirit

Thermae Sylla Spa Wellness Hotel: Where Guests Experience a Metamorphosis

A wise man should consider that health is the greatest of human blessings…

Hippocrates (c.460 – 400 BC)

In ancient times Edipsos was known aptly as Loutropolis (Spring City), and Greek philosophers such as Aristotle, Strabo, Plutarch and Hippocrates wrote in praise of its thermal healing waters. Located in Central Greece on the island of Evia, it is just 150 kilometers north of Athens. Although Heraclitus, another philosopher of note, famously declared, “you cannot step into the same water twice,” the springs have endured through the centuries and the water still heals. It is an amazing, centuries-old phenomenon.

The jewel in the crown of this healing paradise is the Thermae Sylla Spa Wellness Hotel, and health-conscious pilgrims come from all over the world for its therapeutic, curative waters. It has rightfully earned a laurel wreath as the best medical spa in Greece and in 2004, Conde Nast Traveller named it one of the “Ten Best Medical Spas in the World.”

I was a guest there for a week last October when I “took the waters,” enjoyed several treatments, including immersion in mud baths, and was rejuvenated and renewed as never before. It is with me still. I experienced serenity of mind in the soothing pools of the spa with its combined sea and natural spring waters and my body was massaged and pampered by the expert hands of world-class therapists.

Many foreign guests, especially those from Europe, Russia and the Balkan countries, are regular guests who return year after year to follow a regimented routine prescribed by the medical staff. The staff recommends two annual visits of fourteen days each for the most effective detox treatments. These include a daily mud bath, two swims a day in the external pool, (28-30 degrees C or 82.4-86 degrees F) and the warmer indoor pool, (32-34 degrees C or 89.6–107.6 degrees F), a therapeutic treatment of choice, and a five-hour rest. This is wellness at its best.

The outside pool is shaped like two large clover leafs and surrounded by comfortable lounge chairs and tables where the wait staff will serve you lunch and delicious, healthy fruit drinks. The pool’s waters are an equal balance of seawater and therapeutic waters. At regular intervals, water jets from the center and the sides, creating whirlpools and fountains. Guests stand under the fountains, allowing the strong streams of water to massage their heads and shoulders. When the flow of the water stops, everyone swims away; it is like watching a meticulously synchronized water ballet.

The inside pool is one hundred per cent therapeutic water. It is circled by numerous therapy rooms, steam rooms and a sauna. There are lounges for relaxation between the fifteen-minute recommended periods in the pool. These interval periods provide a perfect opportunity for guests to visit the reception area where they may purchase a variety of excellent beauty products, sold exclusively by the spa.

Tsantila Vasiliki, the hotel manager, explained that most of the guests follow the routine prescribed by the medical staff and come for two fourteen-day periods a year. “They are absolutely radiant when they leave,” she said, “and some say they experience a metamorphosis.” In my view, anyone who can experience a “metamorphosis,” —the lyrical Greek word for “transformation” —is favored by the gods;-) Ms. Tsatila said many guests compare the spa with the very cosmopolitan Cannes, France, because of its sophistication and distinctive “European atmosphere.”

The mineral spring water is natural and originates from a depth of 3,000 meters. Its temperature is very high and rich in thermo-metallic salts and trace elements, hence its healing powers. The mud used for the baths is a special mixture of local and Italian mud (I didn’t ask the logistics of transportation). Because of the mixture, it is said to be five times stronger than natural mud and extremely powerful in relieving the body of toxins. My extraordinary bath lasted twenty minutes, during which time my entire body, except for my face, was wrapped in plastic. It was the closest I have ever come to being hermetically sealed.

During the mud bath, I was alone in a quiet, darkened room. The attendant came in every three minutes to wipe the sweat from my face, preventing it from going into my eyes. At the end of my time, I was helped into the shower for a thorough rinsing, and then I was placed in a pleasantly warm whirlpool tub. My head rested on a pillow and my eyes were covered with a mask. After my twenty-minute soak, I showered, put on my bathing suit and a warm robe. I was then told to spend fifteen minutes each in the internal and external pools, followed by a rest in my room.

It was the most serene afternoon nap I have ever enjoyed. I experienced weightlessness in my body and total peace in my mind. I was among the uninitiated in this therapeutic, toxic-releasing health regime, and it was one of the most bliss-producing experiences of my life.

The following day a very, very special treat awaited me. I was scheduled for “Cleopatra’s Bath”, a treatment truly fit for a queen. It began with an ultra-hydrating olive facial mask. Next, my body was moisturized with olive oil while I floated on a waterbed as an aromatic mist sprayed my body at intervals. (Don’t hate me.) Legend has it that Cleopatra had both mud and milk baths and that these contributed to her well-being (before the asp). Thermae Sylla Spa Wellness Hotel is not a hotel with a spa; it is a world-class medical spa in a majestic, neoclassical building that has pride of place on a quiet corner of Evoekos Bay. Surrounded by mountains and scented by aromatic herbs, the spa first opened in 1890 and was extensively renovated between 1996 and 1999. Open year-round, the Spa’s landscape and facilities are of understated elegance. Guests “take the waters” and have a choice of more than 100 therapeutic treatments in a setting of sublime luxury. There is no better medical spa in all of Greece.

How did the Spa get its name? We must go way, way back in history for the answer to that question. In fact, travel back with me to sometime in 100 B.C. It was during that century that the Roman General Syllas visited the springs and was said to be cured of uric arthritis. His memory was immortalized when the owners chose to name the building The Thermae Sylla Spa Wellness Hotel.

The fact that the popularity of the healing waters has endured through the centuries is extraordinary, even though its renown experienced natural periods of rise and decline. Its fame peaked during the Belle Èpoque “Beautiful Age” era (1871-1941), when celebrities such as Eleftheros Venizelos, Maria Callas, Omar Sharif, Greta Garbo, Aristotle Onassis and Winston Churchill were drawn to the healing waters. Since then, many other famous people have been guests. I learned that shortly before my stay, a Saudi princess and her children were guests for a week.

The hotel has a variety of rooms and suites, including two executive suites and one presidential suite. Bountiful breakfast and lunch buffets with wholesome food are offered in the Edipsos Restaurant. Mediterranean and international cuisine is enjoyed by guests in the elegant, outdoor Mesogheios Restaurant. Lighter fare is available at the Aithrio Bistro and at the pool bar.

There are literally more than one hundred treatments offered to provide relief for ailments ranging from degenerative arthritis and rheumatism to chronic gynecological troubles and posttraumatic deformities. In addition to treatments by therapists, the spa has an Inhalation Room of ionized water steam, recommended for ear, nose and throat problems. There are also four steam and sauna baths and a Teidarium. A warming room is maintained at a temperature between 30-40 degrees C. or 86-104 degrees F to promote relaxation and revitalization.

Alas, I had just two mud baths during my week at the spa, but during those seven days I was rejuvenated and renewed. To the lovely Vassiliki Tsatila and her thoughtful staff at the Thermae Syllla Spa Wellness Hotel, I say sas ευχαριστώ πολύ (thank you very much). I have undergone a metamorphosis and been favored by the gods.

TELOS 

 Photos courtesy of Thermae Sylla Spa Wellness Hotel.

This article was published in Luxe Beat Magazine

Aphrodites Hideaway

Where the Muses come for Inspiration

Of all the unique architectural features that distinguish St. John Mykonos Hotel, the stunning five-star luxury resort on Mykonos, none is more iconic than the graceful, chalk-white bridge that begins at poolside and takes you into the Aegean Sea. Through the morning mist, I could see the figure of a slim young woman in white standing on the crescent-shaped overpass. Like Aphrodite, she seemed to be rising from the foam of the sea. She was framed against the rosy-fingered dawn, rising in slender waves of orange and purple ribbons, tossed across the sky.

Thus was the serene view that greeted me on my first morning in my commodious suite at St. John, the relatively young resort hotel that is the jewel in the crown of luxury accommodation on Mykonos, the most cosmopolitan of the Cycladic islands in Greece. Its location, accommodations, spa, cuisine and services are the best the island has to offer.

Surely, the gods have smiled upon me, I thought. Mykonos is my favorite of all the islands and here I was on a hillside where the land cascades into the sea. The location provides a panoramic view of both Agios Ioannis and the Aegean; it is flawless. The hotel’s beach was chosen as the setting for the cult classic movie, Shirley Valentine, one of the most endearing films about Greece. It is the story of a bored woman from a dreary town in England who comes to Mykonos and discovers sunshine, living in and relishing the moment, and love.

Each morning, the view from my balcony was distinctive, and on my second day I saw a shadowy outline in the sea’s deep vista. As the morning mist rose, the grey outline of the sacred island of Delos was revealed and it beckoned me. I learned I could arrange a private tour of both Delos, the sacred island where warriors fought heroic battles centuries ago, and also of Rhinia, its sister island, where the bones of the warriors are buried. By Greek law, no one is allowed to build on either of these islands.

The boat trips sounded appealing, but I was feeling mellow and decided that after breakfast, I would spend at least the morning at the Aphrodite Spa and Beauty Center, the tranquil space that is the very heart of the hotel. After studying the list of the spa’s extensive services, I promised myself a day of relaxation and revitalization and was not disappointed.

The spa is a gathering spot, especially for female guests. They come to use the sauna, Jacuzzi, steam bath, and heated pool, and to enjoy invigorating massages, mud baths, aromatherapy, thalassotherapy and the beauty services. They assemble, also, to have conversations with the “hostess” of the spa, the most personable Evgenia Rather Kosathanas. She is lovely wife of Thanasis Kousathanas and daughter-in-law of Yiannis Kousathanas, founder and owner of St. John Mykonos. The spa has a soothing, welcoming atmosphere and guests soon become aware that the ambiance reflects Evgenia’s thoughtful and tranquil personality and genial hospitality.

Over the course of my one-week stay, I visited the spa daily and had a variety of treatments, including relaxing massages and the most perfect pedicure I have ever enjoyed. It was pleasurable to splash about in the soothing warm waters of the indoor pool and then relax on a lounge chair, listen to soft music, and read my books of Greek poetry. Bliss.

In the evenings, I was in “Seventh Heaven”—literally. This is the hotel’s premier gourmet restaurant where dining is an art. I chose entrees recommended by the chef and my palate was always pleasantly delighted. The Greek wines never disappointed and were chosen from the hotel’s exclusive cellar. Indeed, my days were serene and my evenings mellow.

The location of St. John Mykonos is dramatic. It is perched on a hillside on Agios Ioannis, one of the most desirable locations on the island, offering stunning views of the setting sun, the Aegean Sea and Delos Island. It is an architectural masterpiece created to offer guests the finest in luxury travel. Accommodations range from executive rooms and junior and family suites to secluded villas with private pools. The hotel’s private beach extends over 200 meters and a tennis court is available for guests desiring stimulating physical activity. There are seven restaurant and bars, including areas for casual, poolside dining and fine dining.

The reputation of St. John Mykonos as an ideal location for conferences is growing and it now has two indoor halls that can accommodate 450 delegates. These are The Pelagos Conference room, accommodating 100 persons theatre-style or 60 persons classroom style. The larger Zeus meeting room is for larger groups up to 350.

All equipment needed for professional presentations is available, allowing guests to relax with the knowledge that all is in good hands.

Professional organizations from all over the world have chosen to hold their conferences at St. John Mykonos and its desirability has spread by the time-honored method of “word of mouth.” Guests come from far and wide, also, to hold their weddings in a spectacular setting that will be unforgettable. All planning, from the catering, seating, floral arrangements and photography is done by the hotel’s professional event-planning staff. Arrangements can be made for a local priest to perform the ceremony; most guests choose to include the final touch, which is a brilliant display of fireworks.

Unfortunately, there was no wedding during my stay and I did not get to see the fireworks, but I did see the sunset, I swam in the sea and in the pool, I had lunch by the pool bar and dinner in Seventh Heaven, I had luxurious days at the Aphrodite Spa, I felt the energy radiating from the sacred island of Delos, and I had my photo taken on the chalk-white bridge. I pretended I was the goddess Aphrodite, rising from the foam of the Aegean Sea. Why not? At St. John Mykonos Hotel, all things are possible.

Please visit the hotel’s website at www.saintjohn.gr and contact the hotel by sending an email to info@saintjohn.gr.

All images are courtesy of St. John Mykonos Hotel

This article was published in the April edition of Luxe Beat Magazine