Manousakis Vineyards – Crete

As the first rays of sunlight warm the field, I look toward the Lefa Ori mountain range and see the procession of men and women in the distance, slowly descending the rugged hills. I am standing near Kostis Falanis, who has been working the ancient still for the past two hours; the aroma of a sweet liquid fills the air.

He gives the strayfylo—the grape skins and stems—another quick stir, watching as the steam from the copper pot is funneled to the tank. Kostis tells me the steam is and then cooled by the water until it becomes the “fire-water” liquid called tsikoudia, also known by the more popular name of raki.

Art Space Winery of Santorini

One enters the Art Space Winery of Santorini in Exo Gonia through an underground cavern eight meters below the earth’s surface. Its carved chambers of pumice rock are a work of art and visitors with discriminating eyes will know that the age of this ancient grotto can be seen in the caves and cisterns formed by the island’s unique volcanic ash.

Art Space Winery is, as its name implies, a place for art and a place for wine. Hundreds of artists from all over the world have exhibited their paintings, photographs, sculptures, and jewelry here. It is a working winery producing more than 10,000 bottles of fine wine each year.

 Traditional wine making equipment is on display along with artifacts from a winery in the same location dating back to 1861.

The Museum tells the story of the history of wine making and the craftsmanship employed. The vineyards of Santorini are said to be among “the oldest in the world,” and perhaps its longevity is due to its unique volcanic soil, known to be resistant to the dreaded fungi or insect infestation that have plagued and destroyed many a vineyard.

The Art Space Winery has several features contributing to the production of high quality wine. First, the grapes are organically grown. Secondly, the walls of the winery are dense layers of pumice, six meters thick, creating insulating material and a perfect environment for maturation and ageing of the wine.

Finally, the vinification—the conversion of grape juice into wine through fermentation–takes place on three different levels, thus taking advantage of gravity and natural flow without the use of pumps.

An old, pre-industrial winery that began operation in 1861 remained in operation until 1952 when its third owner, Nikolaos A. Argyros, closed its doors to establish SantoWines, the largest winery on the island. In 1999 Mr. Argyros’ son, Antonis, brought the old winery back to life and founded Art Space Winery.

Whether you are interested exclusively in wine or exclusively in art, you should not leave Santorini without visiting Art Space.

Where else can you wander through a cave, learn about the history of wine-making, see modern wine making in progress, and be treated to exquisite works of art. Indeed, it is a very special “space.”

TELOS

Published in The National Herald, June 2014 and on Hellenic Lifestyle ... Celebrating Greek Spirit

Special thanks to Art Space for all the photos. Visit them at www.artspace-santorini.com

Tsigoudia in Crete

As the first rays of sunlight warm the field, I look toward the Lefa Ori mountain range and see the procession of men and women in the distance, slowly descending the rugged hills. I am standing near Kostis Falanis, who has been working the ancient still for the past two hours; the aroma of a sweet liquid fills the air.

He gives the stayfylo—the grape skins and stems—another quick stir, watching as the steam from the copper pot is funneled to the tank. Kostis tells me the steam is then cooled by the water until it becomes the “fire-water” liquid called tsikoudia, also known by the more popular name of raki.

I am in Vatollakkos, Crete, participating in the “Night Harvest” of the Manousakis Winery. Earlier that morning, I was with the workers, picking grapes in the vineyards. Because it is too hot during the day, and the fields are not lighted in the evening, the “night” harvest actually begins shortly before sunrise and ends around 8 am.

This is the last harvest of the year completed by the Vineyard’s paid workers and also friends and neighbors of the Manousakis’ family. It is a ritual that brings the community together. As the men and women approach the still, they receive a traditional greeting from Kostis: a shot of the tsikoudia, ritualistically downed in one swallow.

A few feet from the still are long tables laden with Cretan specialties prepared that morning by women from the village. I notice that most people are choosing the small sausages first, so I sample one and immediately take another. I tell the woman next to me that the sausage is the most delicious I ever tasted and she tells me it is made with a “secret” ingredient.

The sausages are small, so I venture to the table again, taking a third. I savor it, and this time I am sure I have discovered the secret ingredient. It is vinegar. I make a mental note to ask my host for the recipe.

I am told I must have my shot of tsikoudia, so I approach the still, now surrounded by men only. I take the shot and down it in one swallow as Kostis shouts “Kalos Orisete!! Kalos Oriste!! It tastes nothing like the commercial brand sold in the stores on Crete and I realize that it must be highly prized. I ask Kostis for a second shot and he complies and then fills glasses all around. Now the men make a toast, shouting “Kalos Orisete!! Kalos Orisete!!

And I join in.

TO TELOS (THE END)

Photography courtesy of Kopanakis Family taken in Makrigialos-Sitia, Crete

This article was published in Hellenic Lifestyls ... Celebrating Greek Spirit